Chusonji Temple - Konjikudo Hall

Chusonji is the chief temple of the Tendai sect located in Hiraizumi Town, Nishi-Iwai District, Iwate Prefecture, and was registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 2011 as "Hiraizumi ― Temples, Gardens and Archaeological Sites Representing the Buddhist Pure Land." It is said to have been founded by Great Master Jikaku Ennin in 850 (Kashō 3), and in the early 12th century, Fujiwara no Kiyohira, the first lord of the Ōshū Fujiwara clan, built a large temple complex. Kiyohira built Chusonji under the grand ideal of commemorating the many lives lost in the Earlier Nine Years' War and the Later Three Years' War, and realizing the peaceful Buddhist world of the "Pure Land" on earth through Buddhist teachings.

The greatest attraction at Chusonji is the "Konjikudo," designated as Japan's first National Treasure. Built in 1124 (Tenjī 1), the Konjikudo is an Amida Hall completely covered inside and outside with gold leaf, and the pillars and altar are adorned with mother-of-pearl inlay (raden), lacquered painting (maki-e), and openwork carving, showcasing the finest craftsmanship of the Heian period without reservation. Materials such as mother-of-pearl inlay using South Pacific nautilus shell, African ivory, and Chinese rosewood illustrate the vast trading network of the Ōshū Fujiwara clan at that time, reminding us that 12th-century Japan was connected to the wider world. Within the altar are enshrined the remains of three generations of the Fujiwara clan—Kiyohira, Motohira, and Hieihira—as well as the head of the fourth-generation Yasuhira, and after some nine hundred years, they continue to rest in the golden light.

The Konjikudo is protected within a concrete structure called an "outer hall" (ōaidō), and visitors view it through glass. The solemnity within the hall is beyond words, and the space created by the gleaming gold leaf and exquisite decoration is an overwhelmingly beautiful embodiment of the Buddhist Pure Land paradise. The adjacent Sankozo, a treasure house, contains approximately 3,000 temple treasures, including National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties. Among these, the Buddhist scripture decorated with gold and silver characters on deep indigo paper is considered the masterpiece of Heian-period scriptural copying.

The approach to Chusonji is called "Tsukimi-zaka" (Moon-viewing Slope), a path of about 800 meters lined with centuries-old cedar trees that evokes a solemn atmosphere. Along both sides of the path are various halls such as the Benkei Hall, Jizō Hall, and Yakushi Hall, each offering distinctive architecture and Buddhist statues to view. The Benkei Hall enshrines a wooden statue of Musashibo Benkei, the loyal retainer of Minamoto no Yoshitsune, a highlight unique to Hiraizumi, known as the place where Yoshitsune and Benkei met their end. From the East Viewing Platform partway up Tsukimi-zaka, one can enjoy the magnificent views of the Kitakami River and Mount Tabaashina, and contemplate the landscape that inspired the haiku by Matsuo Bashō: "Summer grass— / all that remains / of warriors' dreams."

Beyond Chusonji, Hiraizumi has much to offer. Motsuji Temple features the Ōizumi Pond, considered the masterpiece of Pure Land garden design, and is registered as a World Heritage Site as a precious remnant that preserves the garden design philosophy of the Heian period. During the Fujiwara Festival in May, a procession depicting Minamoto no Yoshitsune's journey eastward is reenacted, with armored warriors parading through the town of Hiraizumi in a grand historical pageant.

In terms of local cuisine, Maesawa beef (Maesawa-gyu) is a well-known specialty of Hiraizumi. It is a premium Japanese beef that Iwate Prefecture takes pride in, characterized by finely marbled meat and the refined sweetness of the fat. Wanko soba is also a famous specialty of Iwate, available at soba restaurants in the Hiraizumi area. The region also has a deep-rooted mochi culture, with a variety of mochi dishes available, including zunda mochi, walnut mochi, and red bean mochi.

Access is about 25 minutes on foot from JR Hiraizumi Station on the Tōhoku Main Line, or about 5 minutes by bus. From Tokyo, take the Tōhoku Shinkansen to Ichinoseki Station, transfer to a conventional train, and arrive at Hiraizumi Station in about 10 minutes. Admission is 800 yen for adults (includes the Konjikudo and Sankozo). Please view the golden Pure Land that the Ōshū Fujiwara clan envisioned with your own eyes.