Tōji-in

Tōji-in is a Rinzai Zen temple of the Tenryū-ji branch situated in Tōji-in Kitamachi, Kita Ward, Kyoto, serving as the ancestral temple of the Ashikaga shogun family, where the grave of Takauji Ashikaga, founder and first shogun of the Muromachi shogunate, is located. According to tradition, it was founded in 1341 by Takauji with Musō Soseki of Tenryū-ji as its founding patriarch, and subsequently became the object of veneration for all 15 generations of Ashikaga shoguns under the Muromachi shogunate. Positioned next to Ritsumeikan University's Kinugasa Campus, slightly removed from Kyoto's bustling tourist center, it is an ideal hidden gem for those seeking to experience Kyoto's beauty at a leisurely pace, away from the crowds.

The temple's foremost attraction is the stroll garden attributed to Musō Soseki. Composed of two sections—the eastern garden centered on the Shinjigata Pond and the western garden centered on the Fuyō Pond—it creates a grand composition incorporating Kinugasa Mountain as borrowed scenery. Viewed from the study hall, the garden transforms with each season, displaying spring plum and cherry blossoms, early summer azaleas, autumn foliage, and winter snow, always presenting a picture-perfect beauty. From late May through June, when azaleas are in full bloom, the flowers blanketing the pond's banks create a spectacular reflection in the water.

Another major highlight is the Reikodan Hall, which houses the Jizō Bodhisattva (traditionally known as the Koun Jizō), said to be Takauji Ashikaga's principal object of devotion, at its center, surrounded by wooden statues of the successive Ashikaga shoguns from the first Takauji to the 15th Yoshiaki, along with a statue of Tokugawa Ieyasu, all arranged in a row. This unparalleled sight of successive shoguns assembled together provides a precious opportunity to physically sense the history of the Muromachi period. Note that statues of the 5th Yoshikazu and 14th Yoshishige no longer exist.

The adjoining tea room, Seirentei, is an elegant space said to have been favored by Yoshimasa Ashikaga, the 8th shogun of the Muromachi shogunate. Here you may also enjoy matcha and seasonal Japanese confections (additional fee). The garden view through the window captures the serene world the shogun once admired. Because the temple remains underdeveloped as a tourist site, weekday visits offer the luxury of contemplating the garden in solitude.

A visit while touring world heritage sites in the Kinugasa area—such as Kinkaku-ji, Ryōan-ji, and Nin-na-ji—will provide a profound Kyoto experience touching the heart of the Ashikaga era. This is a hidden treasure of Kyoto that history enthusiasts and garden lovers should absolutely visit.